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Bangladesh Apparel Sector in Post MFA Era: A study on the Ongoing Restructuring process

Mustafizur Rahman, Debapriya Bhattacharya and Khondaker Golam Moazzem

Published in February 2008

Price  450Tk

 

The end of Multi-fibre Arrangement (MFA) in December, 2004 was a critical milestone in the global trading regime in textiles and clothing. Unshackled by the quota derestriction, a number of apparel exporting countries, most importantly China, had started to take advantage of the emergent situation. In spite of the formidable challenges, and the attendant difficulties, export-oriented RMG industry of Bangladesh was able to sustain the growth momentum of the post-MFA era and demonstrated remarkable results. An exercise to identify factors contributing to Bangladesh's post-MFA performance is important to understand, and to gain useful insights, about the strengths of Bangladesh's RMG sector and the ongoing restructuring in the export-oriented RMG industries of the country. Such an exercise required generation of detailed factory level data and information relating to the nature of the restructuring, coping strategies pursued by individual entrepreneurs, technological change, product and process modification and upgradation, productivity changes and initiatives to attain compliance with core labour standards at the enterprise level. This exercise could also be helpful in understanding the problems faced by the enterprises in maintaining their competitive edge in the global market. The present volume is the outcome of a study implemented by the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD), in collaboration with the SouthAsia Enterprise Development Facility (SEDF), to find answers to the aforesaid questions. Based on indepth analysis of detailed firm level data, generated through large sample surveys of RMG enterprises and workers, the study throws important insights as regards how the RMG sector of Bangladesh is positioning itself in view of the changing global market scenario.

Areas which have been dealt with in this volume include characteristic features of Bangladesh's RMG enterprises, background of RMG entrepreneurs and workers, nature of the ongoing restructuring process, production, cost structure, sourcing of raw materials, marketing strategies, dynamics of capital-output and labour-output ratios, product and market diversification, state of labour standards compliance, livelihood issues concerning RMG workers, skill upgradation, scaling up and consolidation, structural weaknesses and future challenges. The study also puts forward a set of policy recommendations in this context with a view to enabling strengthened participation of Bangladesh's export-oriented RMG sector in the global market, so that the sector could take advantage of emerging market opportunities and address the attendant challenges.